4 channel Digital LED controller – ET-DL01

26 Responses

  1. Hello there;

    (IC1 – Switching regulator 8-32V in, 5V out)

    What else can I use instead of this product? I ordered the PCB, but I am having difficulty in obtaining this product.

  2. WS2815 How should I connect this LED with 4 pin connection to the pcb?

  3. Hi;
    I am having such a problem. I connected a WEMOS ESP8266 module to the PCB. I set it to be CH1=D1, CH2=D0, CH3=D5, CH4=D6 via the esphome. CH1,CH3 and CH4 work fine, but I can’t get results from CH2. Can you help me how can I detect the problem?

  4. Simon Kenyon says:

    the link to the pcb in pcbway points to the analog version.

  5. Simon Kenyon says:

    pcbway has taken over 60 days to deliver, so i’ve built the circuit on a breadboard.
    i’ve got three strings of 5m/30/sk6812 from BTF and they all do the same thing.
    i was wondering if you might have any suggestions:

    only 113 of the 150 will light.
    the colours are pretty random. i’ve tried every chipset in the yaml file and they all seem to do pretty much the same. white will show up as white, but anything else is pretty random. usually white/green, then blue and then red in a repeating string.

    any suggestions would be much appreciated.

    • Simon Kenyon says:

      it appears to be an issue with the fastled_clockless library.
      for anyone trying to get this to work, the following might be of some use:

      – platform: neopixelbus
      variant: SK6812
      pin: GPIO22
      num_leds: 150
      type: GRBW
      name: “${device_description} channel 1”
      – addressable_rainbow
      – addressable_color_wipe
      – addressable_scan
      – addressable_twinkle
      – addressable_fireworks
      – addressable_random_twinkle

    • michel says:

      60 days? That’s a long time. I never waited that long for a package from PCBway.

      • Simon Kenyon says:

        they finally arrived after about 65 days. nice boards!

        If and when you do an iteration of the board design you might add a couple of pin headers so the board can be programmed in place (IO0 to ground). This is only needed the first time the board if flashed with esphome.

        Also, perhaps you could extend the rows of holes (TD0, SD), TCK and SD3) so that the supplied headers for the D1 MINI can be used.

    • Paul says:

      High speed signals on a not-high quality breadboard can be very tricky. Remember that the data lines are at a relative high clock frequency, which will create / require steep edges. This requires decent power line decoupling, as close to the 74HCT244 as possible. (That is the function of the 0.1µF ceramic capacitor. It is a critical component!) Make sure that your 74HCT244 is really switching to 5V, and not to a (much) lower voltage. You can measure that in a static condition on your breadboard. Just apply 3.3V to an input of the buffer, and the output should switch to 5V.

      • Josh says:

        For those (like recent me) who do not understand this: when Paul talks about requiring “steep edges”, he’s referring to the difference between “voltage up” (aka on) and “voltage down” (aka off). While I thought that “PWM turns off and on X times per minute” meant that it’s a perfect binary with only On and Off as possible states, the truth is that there is *always* a slope between on and off (or off and on). Even inside the fastest CPU the signal ramps from 0V to some threshold that the next component counts as “up”. Sacrificing the quality of your electrical path (say by using a breadboard) can make this slope wider and sloppier and throw off everything else. There’s a great video from Linus Tech Tips called “This Just Saved me $100,000 – Totalphase Cable Tester” that explains this to someone who identifies with “I’m a technical person, but thought that binary signals were a simple on/off”

  6. D says:

    Could you advise which pins to use in combination with a wemos D1 mini esp8266 loaded with WLED?

    Looking at the Circuit diagram and PCB i think it would be


  7. Josh says:

    Thanks for this

    After a couple months of waiting for parts I just built one with the ESP32mini and a 12V LED strip and it works perfectly.
    Just copy-pasted the code above which was a nice bonus!

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